I did a post search before i posted this and didnt find anything. But I have ordered the nology hotwires for the ecotec. Has anyone installed this and had any good news or bad news about it?
Installation of Nology Hotwires
I'd like to hear some info on it. What is retail for that kit?
Quote: no ofence man but if you have so much experience in all that why does your car look like crap?
Heres some more info on them
Hotwires I purchased mine for $200
http://members.cardomain.com/gtfreakz77
Hmm.....Where did you guys order yours from?
is it me or does 300ohms/ft sound high? aren't there much lower resistance wires out there? last set i seen for the ls1 was only 40ohms/ft.
if anyone here has them installed, did you feel a difference in power? or if anyone put in the dyno time, did you see a difference there?
<br>
-DS
i got this bad boy coming shortly. ill let everyone here and on JBO know what the differences are
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
Mine is in the mail also, any day now. I can't dyno it, but i will let you know of any other noticeable changes.
MyCavalier
Don't forget to go to www.staticxmotorsports.com to buy the ground wires to go with that upgrade. You'll really like what you experience with those two upgrades to your car's electrical system. Staticxmotorsports sells each ground kit for 60 dollars, and they make extremely good products. I'm very satisfied.
Do you have any pictures of your install? With the ground wires?
MyCavalier
I got them on my for a month now, they feel great but I am worry about the frequency cross over. I'll get a pic out tommorrow, I have the yellow ones.
I'm going to get mine installed on my Cavalier tomorrow. I wish the hotwires were a little less steep on the price though. I've had the same kind of work done to my '01 Eclipse, so I know there's a definite difference in throttle response with the hotwires and ground wires installed. On top of that, all of my electronics ran very smoothly and my lights were a little brighter.
I'm also going to port match my intake manifold to my head tomorrow. Apparently the stock intake manifold's ports are smaller than the ones that are on the head. Kind of retarded, but I'll fix that. I hear that port matching will help with the mid-high powerband with no low end loss. Any tips?
I noticed that the hotwire also have grounding straps too on the pics. Your talking about the seperate grounding kit correct in conjunction with the nology?
Quote: no ofence man but if you have so much experience in all that why does your car look like crap?
Yep, separate kit. Ground kit and Hotwires.
Just got done installing mine, no instructions, thank goodness for a semi-instruction on the website. I didnt have enough screws either, kinda hokie for $200 mod. But it works, ill test it out tommorrow. Check out my cardomain for a picture.
MyCavalier
I wouldn't recommend the Nology wires. They give off a lot of RF interference and don't add any more energy to the spark. They're on a par with Splitfires.
Got this off the
Magnecor site:
Quote:
"CAPACITOR" EFFECT WIRES with grounded metal braiding over jacket
The most notable of exaggerated claims for ignition wires are made by Nology, a recent manufacturer of ignition wires promoted as "the only spark plug wires with built-in capacitor." Nology's "HotWires" (called "Plasma Leads" in the UK) consist of unsuppressed solid metal or spiral conductor ignition wires over which braided metal sleeves are partially fitted. The braided metal sleeves are grounded via straps formed from part of the braiding. Insulating covers are fitted over the braided metal sleeves. These wires are well constructed. For whatever reason, Nology specifies that non-resistor spark plugs need to be used with their "HotWires." In a demonstration, the use of resistor plugs nullifies the visual effect of the brighter spark.
Ignition wires with grounded braided metal sleeves over the cable have come and gone all over the world for (at least) the last 30 years, and similar wires were used over 20 years ago by a few car makers to solve cross-firing problems on early fuel injected engines and RFI problems on fiberglass bodied cars — only to find other problems were created. The recent Circle Track Magazine (USA, May, 1996 issue) test showed Nology "HotWires" produced no additional horsepower (the test actually showed a 10 horsepower decrease when compared to stock carbon conductor wires).
The perceived effect a brighter spark, conducted by an ignition wire, encased or partially encased in a braided metal sleeve (shield) grounded to the engine, jumping across a huge free-air gap (which bears no relationship to the spark needed to fire the variable air/fuel mixture under pressure in a combustion chamber) is continually being re-discovered and cleverly demonstrated by marketers who convince themselves there's monetary value in such a bright spark, and all sorts of wild, completely un-provable claims are made for this phenomena.
Like many in the past, Nology cleverly demonstrates a brighter free-air spark containing useless flash-over created by the crude "capacitor" (effect) of this style of wire. In reality, the bright spark has no more useful energy to fire a variable compressed air/fuel mixture than the clean spark you would see in a similar demonstration using any good carbon conductor wire. What is happening in such a demonstration is the coil output is being unnecessarily boosted to additionally supply spark energy that is induced (and wasted) into the grounded braided metal sleeve around the ignition wire's jacket. To test the validity of this statement, ask the demonstrator to disconnect the ground strap and observe just how much energy is sparking to ground.
Claims by Nology of their "HotWires" creating sparks that are "300 times more powerful," reaching temperatures of "100,000 to 150,000 degrees F" (more than enough to melt spark plug electrodes), spark durations of "4 billionths of a second" (spark duration is controlled by the ignition system itself) and currents of "1,000 amperes" magically evolving in "capacitors" allegedly "built-in" to the ignition wires are as ridiculous as the data and the depiction of sparks in photographs used in advertising material and the price asked for these wires! Most stock ignition primaries are regulated to 6 amperes and the most powerful race ignition to no more than 40 amperes at 12,000 RPM.
It is common knowledge amongst automotive electrical engineers that it is unwise to use ignition wires fitted with grounded braided metal sleeves fitted over ignition cable jackets on an automobile engine. This type of ignition wires forces its cable jackets to become an unsuitable dielectric for a crude capacitor (effect) between the conductor and the braided metal sleeves. While the wires function normally when first fitted, the cable jackets soon break down as a dielectric, and progressively more spark energy is induced from the conductors (though the cable jackets) into the grounded metal sleeves, causing the ignition coil to unnecessarily output more energy to fire both the spark plug gaps and the additional energy lost via the braided metal sleeves. Often this situation leads to ignition coil and control unit overload failures. It should be noted that it is dangerous to use these wires if not grounded to the engine, as the grounding straps will be alive with thousands of volts wanting to ground-out to anything (or body) nearby.
Unless you are prepared to accept poorly suppressed ignition wires that fail sooner than any other type of ignition wires and stretch your ignition system to the limit, and have an engine with no electronic management system and/or exhaust emission controls, it's best not to be influenced by the exaggerated claims, and some vested-interest journalists', resellers' and installers' perception an engine has more power after Nology wires are fitted. Often, after replacing deteriorated wires, any new ignition wires make an engine run better.
The LT1 engines had problems with the nology wires screwing up the PCM's.
That's all I needed to know.
Quote: no ofence man but if you have so much experience in all that why does your car look like crap?
Daniel - (DSLaBuda) wrote:is it me or does 300ohms/ft sound high? aren't there much lower resistance wires out there? last set i seen for the ls1 was only 40ohms/ft.
if anyone here has them installed, did you feel a difference in power? or if anyone put in the dyno time, did you see a difference there?
MSD has wires with less than 50Ohms/ft. I haven't looked for the cavalier but I had them on my Fiero (made my own from a Chevy 350 kit) and they made a difference over stock. Plus I only paid $50 for them at a local autoparts store.
josh
those wires seem a little pricey?
nice post Stonebreaker! That's all i need to know, too.
alot of talk but no one who has them has said if they notice any improvments
