I`ll tell you right now, your m.i.l light will come on, unless your ecm is retarded. (and i doubt that) we are talking about a pretty smart system here. And it`s not easy to fool. OBD 2 is very capable of picking up what you did.
looky looky we have a genious j/k
what is exactly your ecm? a circuit board you can use resistirs and capacitors to change what your ecu recieves and on pre ecotec cars they made o2 sims that worked so obd2 systems arent that smart they actully suck <br>
its a cavalier i should get 2 cars and the hit
ok the guy above me emailed me som crap saying it wouldnt work i hope to prove mr sapporo wrong i have installed my new sim and i hope it works i have pics and ill update it later
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its a cavalier i should get 2 cars and the hit
I'm not very experienced with these engines, so I am speaking generally. I assume there are two O2 sensors, one before and one after the cat. The O2 sensor before the cat measures the performance of the engine, and is used to ensure a proper AF ratio. The sensor after the cat measures the performance of the cat and is only used for checking emissions, and has no impact on engine tuning. Usually this means you can remove the second O2 sensor and have no negative effect other then a constantly throwing a DTC. If you can handle a little light on your dashboard then there is no real reason for a simulator of any kind. BUT... more and more states are beginning to implement OBD2 testing in their inspections, so this DTC would cause you to fail regardless if your emissions are clean or not.
Cheesecake is probably right, it would be possible to make a simulator just by modulating the signal from the O2 sensor. All O2 sensors use an analog signal, so modulating it could be as simple as only requiring capacitors and resistors, although you would have to compare the readings from both the first and second O2 sensors in a car with the cat intact in order to come up with a function to modulate the signal for the second sensor. This is probably what was done for the previous models.
Actually, second thought... Assuming GM uses a narrow band O2 sensor, all the ECU cares about is that the signal from the O2 sensor is reading somewhere around 0.5v. The best way to do this is go to RadioShack and buy a rectifier diode with a switching voltage around 0.5v. (probably 0.45v which is just great) Now find the wire harness for the second O2 sensor and a schematic for it. There should be 4 wires - 2 for the heater element, a reference voltage, and a signal. Cut the signal wire on the sensor side of the harness so it can be easily replaced later if necessary. Then just splice in the diode with the white band facing away from the sensor. Secure the sensor to something so its not dangling about, or just leave it mounted if its bung still exists. Reset your ECU and give it a shot.
As long as the O2 sensor remains there i see no way this can burn anything out, but I have to cover my ass and say its not my fault if your car takes a crap and dies. I figure worst case is the CEL will just come back on and you're back to where you started.
